TYPES  OF GARDEN 
        1. LANDSCAPING OF  HOME 
          2. LANDSCAPING OF  INSTITUTE 
          3. LANDSCAPING OF  INDUSTRY 
          4. ROOF GARDEN 
         
        1. LANDSCAPING  OF HOME  
There are many people who think that  landscape gardening relates to only gardening in large public parks or palaces  of the rich. Landscaping as it is done for larger estates or public parks can  also be implemented in a tasteful and artistic way for a small home ground,  though on a smaller scale. The term "small" is a misleading 'one so  far as it relates to gardens. The simplest definitive or "small", as  suggested by some authors quite appropriately, is an area which can be  effectively managed and maintained physically as well as financially by the  owner and his family with occasional hired labour for such hard work as  digging, mowing, and shearing of hedges. Here, ways will be suggested for  landscaping only small residential houses. For larger estates, a combination of  landscaping effects suggested for parks and home landscaping may be followed. 
There are some basic guidelines for a home  landscape. But personal preference plays a considerable role in developing a  home garden. The home including its surroundings should be an outward  expression of the inner personality and individuality of the owner. Often a  common mistake is made by many to copy a successful competitor of a garden  competition or a neighbour. This may not suit your own home for various  reasons. For example, location aspect of your own garden may be quite different  compared to the one which you want to copy. It is advisable to think a lot  before even a single digging work starts. It is a matter of great regret that  in our country sometimes we spend a fortune in decorating the interior of the  house to make it attractive but ignore the outside compound. 
        Making a Plan  
           
          Before any actual garden work is undertaken a  master plan has to be prepared according to a scale (1: 15 or 1: 20) in which  all the features such as house wall, drive-way, paths, flower beds, shrubbery,  etc., are plotted. The shaded areas due to large tree canopy or the building  itself has to be marked on the plan. A plan prepared on a printed graph paper  is of great help. The plan thus prepared should be studied again and again  keeping in view what shape a plant will take in the long run. It is frequently  observed that people attracted by the graceful form of a young Araucaria  cookii, plant this in the centre of a lawn or near the house possess the  gigantic form and height it will attain after some years. 
            
          Perhaps the owner of  the house will cut this tree when overgrown or it may be retained to the  detriment of other plants growing below it. Either way, this is not a good  planning. Perhaps, one way of satisfying the urge of a garden lover to grow  such beautiful trees in a small compound, is to grow them large concrete tubs  and bury the tub growing the tree in the appropriate place, thus giving the  impression that the plant has actually been grown on the ground. When this  attains a considerable height, say 3-6 m, the tree along with the pot should be  lifted and given to someone who can afford to use such a grown-up tree. But it  is better not to include such controversial items. If the garden area is  sufficiently large, this can be divided into three areas. 
        (1) Approach or Public Area: This is the area from  the street side extending to the entrance of the house. The area may be small  or quite large depending upon where the building is situated. The aim is  to harmonize or blend the surroundings with the house proper. The approach area  should not be overcrowded with large trees. It is better to have doorway or  "foundation" plantings with low rowing shrubs and evergreens.  Floribunda and miniature roses are also suitable for foundation  planting provided sufficient sun, at least during the morning hours, is  available. It is important to note that planting in front of the house  should neither obscure it nor cut off light and air nor block the windows thus  obstructing view of the garden from indoors.  
           
        Floribunda rose 
        Big trees, if space permits, can go in the  backyard but should not be overcrowded in the front. But a few low-growing  trees can be accommodated at the appropriate places as next to entrance, if  space is available or somewhere in the front lawn. An open spacious lawn with  some annuals (cut-and-come again zinnias, salvias, and petunias) or herbaceous  perennials (chrysanthemum, Canna, and Impatiens in shade) can be planned  in addition to the foundation plantings.    
         
           .   
          Impatiens balsamina                                      Zinnia 
        (2) Work or Service Area: The work or service  area can be convenient, orderly and attractive. Wherever feasible this and the  living area should be situated at the back of the house as these need seclusion  or privacy. This area includes the kitchen garden, compost bin, nursery, tool  shed, and garage. Some people like to include the children's swings and the  slide in this portion as the children can be kept under surveillance from  the kitchen. This should be separated from view by planting a thick hedge or a  row of bushy shrubs, as this is considered as the shabbiest part in any garden. 
           
          Service  area 
        (3) Private Garden Area or Living Area: This is generally  termed as the outdoor living area, where people sit out in the winter to enjoy  the sun or rest in the summer under an arbour or shade of tree. This area  should be easily approachable and visible from the living (drawing-room) or  dining-room, screened from unsightly objects and for privacy. In the western  countries people prefer a terrace and this is the place where it should come.  There should be some shaded sitting spot such as a tree or arbour with garden  benches.  
Landscaping can help you effectively cover  your outdoors thereby helping you block unpleasant views from outsiders or your  own neighbors. Building huge walls to achieve this would be undesirable when  the same can be achieved beautifully through landscaping. 
        Garden benches offer a real opportunity to  add utility, color and beauty to the landscape. Comfortable and attractive  items are now available in a wide variety of low maintenance outdoor furniture.  Outdoor furniture must be large enough to be practical and must be in scale  with its surroundings. Built-in furniture has the added value of being  permanently in place and enhancing the overall design. Occasionally the surface  of a retaining wall or raised planter can serve as a seating area. The living  terrace is the most usual place for outdoor furniture.  
        A wide stretch of lawn with shrub border or  few annual beds or a rose garden can also be included in this section. A  tennis court or a play area has to be included here, if there is  enough room. 
          
          Play area 
        But before actual planning one has to first  decide what one wants for one's house. A choice has to be made from the  following. Whether the garden is needed (a) as an outdoor having room with a  long stretch of lawn and terrace (b) as a fenced-in playground (c) as a show  piece with collection of exotic and rare plants or (d) a yielder of vegetables  and fruits or cut flowers for the house is to be determined first. Some may  like to add to the list a large tree for shade or trees to attract birds. It is  to be considered first what should be the major theme of the garden.  
        If somebody is fascinated with flowers, the  borders are to be planned wide to fulfill his desire. People fond of vegetables  and fruit may like to reserve the major portion of the area for this purpose  with possibly a little area left around the house for a pleasure garden. But,  if the garden is desired as a place for outdoor living, a vast expanse of lawn  with minimum of beds and borders has to be planned. Some novices may like to  combine the good qualities of all these themes and incorporate in his garden.  This is bound to create a mess of everything and the ultimate result will be a  garden good for nothing. 
        Many people advise not to include any pool or  formal rock garden or the kind in a home garden. But there is no harm if a  formal or informal 1i1y pool can fit in with the overall design, with or  without a fountain or a rock garden. A statue or sun dial can also be well  fitted in some spacious compounds.    
           
          Lily  pool 
        Some Points to Ponder 
          In designing a house some more thinking is  necessary. To keep down maintenance cost and time, an untrimmed hedge should be  preferred over trimmed one, open lawns and shrubs need less attention than  annual flower beds. If the beds and borders in a lawn are edged with stone or  brick no hand-clipping of grass will be required. A pool needs to be cleaned  occasionally and one should ponder twice before including this in the plan. The  water outlets in the garden should be fixed at appropriate places so that the hoses  are not dragged to long distances. The above suggestions are for reducing the  labour cost which is especially relevant in industrially advanced countries  where labour is costly. Fortunately in India, labour is not so costly' and one  can include one or two features needing help of manual labour. 
        To create privacy, trees, hedges, shrubs,  fences, or creepers trained on wire-mesh structure supported by angle iron or  G.I. pipe pillars can be grown. Trees are used when height is needed, otherwise  hedges and other types of screens should be preferred. 
        Lighting is needed in the light special1y for  terrace area and paths. The same electricity points can be utilized for running  an electric lawn mower.  
           
          Electric lawn mower 
        How to Proceed  
          When everything has been decided, it is time  to tentatively select the plants needed. The different features are then drawn  on the paper with a pencil so that this can be erased if alterations are to be  made. After thorough study and several additions and omissions a plan is  finalized. For an experienced man, this would not be much of a problem. But a  novice must visit the neighbours and see some of the local parks to know what  can be grown. The first thing is to select the materials for the basic  framework such as background, screens, trees needed for shade, the doorway and  the corner of the house. To this the features needed for effects and beauty as  for example plants for foundation planting, flower beds, specimen shrubs or  trees are added. 
        After everything is finalized on paper these  are put into practice on the ground with the help of split-bamboo stakes and  rubber hose. The trees are represented by bamboo stakes, while the beds and  borders can be plotted by bending a rubber hose in the desired pattern, Paths,  hedge, or screen area can also be marked with stakes. When everything is  plotted the design is studied again and last-minute changes are effected if  required. After this, digging and planting work are started according to plan.  Before implementing the plan some compounds may need a little dressing-up like  cleaning, levelling and tidying-up. 
        Salvaging an Old Garden  
          If a property has been purchased which  already had some garden, it is to be studied whether the old garden can be  re-made. This is a complicated job which has its advantages and disadvantages.  It is often difficult to adjust some existing features into the new plan. The  aim is to incorporate in the new design every interesting existing feature and  remove others not needed. A bird bath, water garden and terraces should be  retained and improved upon. The remaking process has to be completed slowly  after watching every feature carefully and evaluating their utility in the new  design. 
          
           
          Water garden 
        Problems and solutions  
        Often it so happens that a double-storey  house has a one-storey garage attached at one side of the building thus  disturbing the whole balance. The solution in correcting this imbalance lies  in planting tall trees with rounded canopy along the garage end. It is also  important to select the proper plants near the house to soften and broaden the  view of the house. A medium tree with low-branching habit and with a rounded or  little oval-shaped top is planted near the corner with some low-growing shrubs  planted around it. Trees such as silver oak, Amherstia nobilis, Cassia  nodosa, Dillenia indica, Gulmohar, Magnolia grandiflora and Saraca  indica can be used for this purpose. If the tree selected is deciduous in  nature the evergreen shrubs below should form the contrast. For a two-storey  house, a high branching rounded canopy tree such as Anthocephalus cadamba,  Erythropsis colorata, Michelia champaca, and Polyalthia.longifolia should  be planted farthest from the corner of the house and in between a fairly large  second tree or shrub is planted, besides some other low-growing shrubs. 
         
                  
          Amherstia nobilis                  Gulmohar                  Michelia  champaca       
        A doorway near the house needs special  attention as this is the place which receives maximum attention from a visitor.  Depending upon the approach a doorway can be planted informally, formally, or  in a semi-informal pattern. It can be arranged with a garden-type design  consisting of an ornamental shade or flowering tree perennial and annual  flowers, climbing roses, some bulbs such as Zephyranthes, Amaryllis and  daffodils (for temperate regions). Where it is not possible to plant the annual  and perennial flowers in ground these can be put in tubs and arranged  artistically. An ornamental light post, an urn or an artistically shaped  boulder will be an object of interest when placed near the shade tree or in an  appropriate corner. A bed of roses can also be a spot of beauty provided it  receives the morning sun. Symmetrical plants with pyramidal form such as Thuja,  Juniperus chinensis, and Cupressus macrocarpa are preferred by many  near the doorway for a formal treatment. 
            
                               Amaryllis                                             Daffodils 
        If a plot is rectangular in shape, where the  length is far greater than the breadth, the best way to develop such plot will  be to divide the whole area into a series of garden compartments enclosed by  hedges with continuous walk of gravel paving or grass connecting each segment  with the other. But some people may prefer to have long stretches of open lawn,  when this arrangement will not do. In such cases the plot should at least be  subdivided into two segments as too much of a rectangular land with narrow  width is not pleasing to the eye. 
        Many people inherit irregular-shaped plots  specially those who are allotted the corner plots. It is far more difficult to  plan a garden for such plots compared to a rectangular or a square plot. Inept  handling may ruin such plots but a man with imagination and artistic sense can  develop a garden which will be far more interesting than a garden in a regular shaped  plot. Such plots should receive informal treatments. An irregular-shaped corner  may be tackled by constructing an informal lily pool. Similarly beds and  borders should be shaped irregularly according to the contour of the plot. It  may be far more convenient to develop a rock garden in a shapeless corner than  to have a lawn or flower bed. It may be wise not to have formal paths of any  kind; instead, the various areas may be reached by stepping-stones placed in  artistically-curved fashion over the grass. These are only a few suggestions.  Much depends on the imagination and tact of the man doing the job on the spot  as the situation demands. 
        Plans for very small compounds 
          What we have so far discussed suits the plots  which are relatively large. For very small plots which cannot be divided into  different segments such as public area, living area, and work area, one has to  depend upon one's own imagination to landscape such plots. But it should be  remembered that the majority of the flowering plants and Calcutta doob do  not flourish well in a shaded place. For such plots situated under shade it is  wise to put shade loving foliage plants and flowering plants preferring  semi-shade such as Impatiens sultanii, geranium, day lily and footfall  lily. Otherwise, a lawn planted with a few specimen shrubs or roses or one or  two small beds of flowering annuals will be more than sufficient for small  compounds situated in the open. In all probability it will not be possible to  have any large tree in such compounds. 
            
          Impatiens  sultanii                           Geranium 
        What we have discussed so far are some  possibilities and nothing is sacrosanct. One can use one's own imagination to  alter one plan or other. Actually landscape design has a wide flexibility and  the same plot can be landscaped in two or more different ways. Moreover,  opinion varies between one landscape designers to another and hence, the  controversy whether a design is perfect will never end. But the basic theories  must be followed and mistakes such as overcrowding, monotony and placing of  plants in wrong situations (e.g., a sun-loving plant placed under the shade of  a tree) should be avoided. Once the design is decided, the different features  such as paths, walls, pools, lawn are constructed as per the procedures  suggested in this book. The basic necessities such as irrigation and drainage  should also be taken care of. 
        Trees suitable for small gardens  
          While selecting trees for the home garden the  following questions must be answered. First of all, why the tree is needed? Is  it for a background or corner planting to frame the house; whether this is  needed for shade for sitting or for the terrace and if so, whether grass will  grow under shade? Once the questions are answered, the right type of tree has  to be selected. Enough room has to be left for the tree to grow. As for  example, a 25 x 50 m plot has room only for a large shade tree and two to three  small flowering trees. Shallow rooted trees such as Millingtonia hortensis should  not be planted as they are surface feeders and may be uprooted by storms. 
        Some trees suitable for the garden have  already been mentioned in the course of discussion, but some more may be added. Bauhinias in different species are quite suitable.  
           
          Bauhinia purpurea 
        Bottle brush is suitable for many situations. Tecoma argentea is a wonderful flowering tree for home gardens around  Bangalore. The following trees are also suitable for planting in the home  grounds: Mimusops elengi, Gliricidia maculata, Cochlospermum gossypium,  Cassia fistula, and Cassia spectabilis. 
         
              
          Cassia fistula                                     Cassia spectabilis 
        Some shrubs may be  grown as specimens in the lawn. A few suggested shrubs are Ixora  singaporensis, Brya ebenus, Sophora tomentosa, Mussaenda philippica, Azalea,  Cotoneaster horizontalis and Rhododendrons in different species. The  last three are suitable for temperate climates. For shrubbery border a list of  shrubs may be made from the chapter on ornamental and flowering shrubs,  depending upon situation. 
            
                          Ixora singaporensis                      Mussaenda philippica 
        Landscaping a Country Home  
          A villager in India may not need a  sophisticated garden as has been discussed in the foregoing pages. However, a  countryman will need as much privacy as a city dweller. A village home has to  be planned with more utility items. A villager would like to grow more  vegetables and fruit for his family consumption and consequently more area  should be earmarked for this purpose. But a shade tree or two and some area  reserved for children's playground is definitely needed. Some utility flowering  trees such as Michelia champaca, Plumeria acutifolia and  shrubs such as Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Tabernaemontana coronaria, Barleria, and  Jasmines yielding flowers for worshipping and hair decoration should be  included for planting. 
            
             Michelia champaca                        Hibiscus  rosa-sinensis  
              
          Tabernaemontana  coronaria                      Barleria cristata 
        The common flowering annuals such as  marigold, zinnia, balsam, and sunflower can be grown for beauty and cut flowers  for various purposes.  
        Top 
 
        2. LANDSCAPING OF  INSTITUTE 
A  planned and properly landscaped school building will be different in appearance  and beauty than unplanned one. Moreover a good garden in the campus inculcated  aesthetic sense to our younger generation. 
The general recommendations is to plant large trees in  the school compound in the periphery of the school campus, along the rear and  wings, a thick belt of large shady trees should be planted to bring down noise  and cut down dust and storms. This plantation will also help keep down severe  heat and cold. The front should be planted with medium-sized flowering trees  for beauty. The trees should not completely obstruct the view of the building  from outside. For enhancing the scenic beauty it is also suggested to plant a  row of flowering trees, with different blooming seasons, in front of the large  trees along the periphery. It is difficult to give any general recommendation  regarding the types of such trees, as this will vary according to the  architectural design, situation and climate. The object is to provide beauty  and comfort depending on convenience.  
        The  roads and paths are to be formally planted with medium to tall flowering plants.  Before planting provision should be made for overhead wiring and sewerage so  that these do not interface with the avenue planting. Where the electric wires  limit the choice of avenue trees, small flowering trees such as Cochlospermum  gossypium, Callistemon lanceolatus, Bauhinia variegata, and Tecoma  argentea can be planted. The trees should be planted in pure avenues. A  lawn looks nice in an educational institution, but is very difficult to  maintain. The playground can be planted with lawn, if this can be maintained or  should be left bare. 
                  
              Bauhinia  variegata                                 Callistemon lanceolatus 
        A thickly planted  belt of eucalyptus for peripheral planting is considered ideal. Silver oak, Polyalthia and Samanea saman are also suitable for this purpose. Cassia fistula, Tecoma argentea, Erythrina indica, Lagerstroemia  flos-reginae and Bauhinia variegata are suitable for  planting in the front and in the front row of the border planting. 
          
              
           Lagerstroemia  flos-reginae                   Cassia fistula 
        
          The  roads and paths are to be formally planted with medium to tall flowering  plants. Before planting provision should be make for overhead wiring and sewage so that  these do not interfere with the avenue planting. Shrubs play an important part  in the school landscaping. Shrub borders round parks or playgrounds is very  effective and can replace hedges as the maintenance is minimum. A lawn look  nice in an educational institution but it is very difficult to maintain. A  bougainvillea creeper trained over the wall of the building can change the  whole look. Similarly, a Bignonia venusta supported against a wall also looks beautiful. A creeper climbing with  their rootlets such as Ficus repens, Tecoma radicans can also be trained over  some stone or brick wall.
            Besides an ornamental  or a landscape garden, universities and colleges can also maintain a botanical  garden or a student garden, where the plants are arranged in groups, family wise  so that such gardens become educative. 
          Top 
         
 
        3. LANDSCAPING OF  INDUSTRY  
In modern times, a  factory should not become a place of only machinery, dust, pollution and noise,  but should also be provided with nicely laid-out parks and gardens. This is not  only needed from the point of beautification, but also to fight pollution and  dust. The factories may be broadly categorized into two groups. The first group  comprises comparatively neat factories such as a plywood factory or a fruit  processing plant which emit less dust and other polluting materials. The second  group consists of factories such as cement, steel, fertilizer, etc. which emit  a lot of dust, smoke, and harmful chemicals. The primary aim in a factory  garden will be to plant trees to arrest the drifting dust and smoke and to cut  down noise.  
Another important aim  is to provide ample shade and coolness so that the workers get a respite under  the coolness of trees from the hostile hot interior of the factory. Moreover  the trees bend down the temperature in the factory premises to a considerable  extent. The places where garden can be laid in the factory area are canteen,  rest-shed, hospital, administrative building etc. 
        It is  interesting to note that well landscaped offices tend to have lower cases of  absenteeism and job shifting. It has also been found that employees serving in  offices featuring colorful landscaped entrances show better productivity. The  reason for this can be attributed to the basic fact that humans have a  fundamental desire to keep contact with nature. Our perception and moods are  highly influenced by the colors we see in and around us  
        Tall and hardy trees  such as Casurarina equisetifloia, Eucalyptus, Polyalthia logifolia and Silver  oak should be planted all around or in the direction of the winds to stop  the spread rows of plants planted in a staggering manner bring down the noise  from the factory to the surroundings outside this barrier.  
         
           
          Polyalthia logifolia  
        Moreover, in a  well-planted factory, the trees bring down the zone may be created by  afforestation between the factory and its residential colony. Afforestation can  be done with hardy ornamentals such as Acacia auriculiformis, Casuarina  equisetifolia, Dalbergia sisso, and some other shade trees. Besides  planting of trees, a factory area can also be beautified with rockeries,  statues water pools or lakes, fountains, etc. Bougainvillea should be  used freely to beautify a factory area. 
        Root  zone process is a German Technology to treat industrial and domestic waste  water economically, efficiently and naturally. Three integrated compounds are  essential to this system. They are the reeds, the reed bed and the microbial  organisms. 
        Run the contaminated  water under the root zone and the reed beds treat the water.  The out coming water is clear, odourless and  free from contamination which can be used for gardening and farming. 
        Landscaping can  hugely enhance the sales appeal of a property thereby increasing the overall  property value. The factors that seem to contribute in increasing the property  values include greenery, walkways, arches, patios, decks and ponds. 
        Thus there is vast  scope for the development of industrial and institutional landscapes. Such  landscapes should aim to improve the aesthetic beauty of the place and reduce  the pollution. 
        Top 
 
        4. ROOF  GARDENING 
         
        Garden is an embellished area with  plants. The importance of gardening has been well understood by every  individual. The gardens not only serve as a place of recreation, it also serves  as a place for education by the way of establishing a home garden or botanical  gardens.  
           
          The art of creating the greenery and  maintaining the greenery is known as “Roof  Gardening”. This is also known as Terrace gardening. The existing roof top  can be effectively utilized for growing fruit plants, vegetables, spices,  homestead medicinal plants, flower plants and ornamental plants. The population  explosion occurs every day resulted in the migration of peoples from rural  areas to urban areas for income generation. Due to migration of peoples most of  the agriculture lands are converted into residential areas, resulted with  decreased production of fruits and vegetables. This can be circumvented by  kitchen gardening and roof gardening.  
           
          In urban areas, due to escalating  population, more land area is brought under the construction of houses;  therefore there is hardly any space for growing vegetables. Especially in  multistoried buildings, roof gardening is the only way to grow fruits and vegetables  by using the pots and containers. This practice is known as container gardening.  Psychiatrist recommends that working in garden refresh the body and  mind by reliving harsh stresses. Gardens become the integral part of the family  life benefited by the supply of toxic free fresh fruits and vegetables. 
        Dietitians  recommend 85 grams of fruits/day, 300 grams of vegetables/day, whereas the  present day consumption of fruit is only 30 grams/day and vegetables is 120  grams/day. The consequences of nutritional and vitamin deficiency are given as  follows.  
        
          
            Nutrients  | 
            Consequences    of deficiency  | 
           
          
            Calories    and proteins  | 
            Retarded    growth in children; irritability, apathy and retarded mental development;    discolouration of skin and hair; swelling of face and lower part of the legs    and feet, fatty liver, and extreme emaciation.  | 
           
          
            Vitamin    A  | 
            Inability    to see in brightness, sensitivity to night light, foamy white patches on the    conjunctive softening of the cornea, leading to blindness; frequent    respiratory infections.  | 
           
          
            Vitamin    B 
            Thiamine    (B1)  | 
            Causes beriberi; loss of appetite.  | 
           
          
            Riboflavin    (B2)  | 
            Cracks    at the corners of the mouth; cracked lips; glossy tongue; ulcers in the oral    cavity.  | 
           
          
            Nicotinic    acid  | 
            Sore    tongue (scarlet coloured); pellagra, showing skin changes on hands, feet,    legs and neck; mental changes in severe condition.  | 
           
          
            Vitamin    C  | 
            Scurvy    – bleeding gums and mucus membranes and susceptibility to infection as common    cold.  | 
           
          
            Calcium  | 
            Important    for bones and teeth, blood clotting. Osteomalacia in women after repeated    pregnancies.  | 
           
          
            Iron  | 
            Anemia    – pale smooth tongue, pale eyes and skin; spoon – shaped nails; frequent    exhaustion.  | 
           
         
        Aims  of roof gardening 
        
        Location  of garden  
        
          
            - Roof  top/ verandah / window sills 
 
            - Preferably  open areas with plenty of sunlight and water supply
 
           
         
        Roof gardening can be established in a  best manner with the availability of sun light and water. Plants produce  quality fruits and vegetables by using sunlight and water. Since there is not  enough place in the flats these days, this garden can be laid on roof tops,  there by effectively utilizing the available space on the roof tops. In  multistoried buildings, not all the apartments have a roof.  Thus the pots can be placed in the verandah  and window sills.  
          
        Fruit crops in roof garden 
          
        Vegetable crops in roof  garden 
          
        Flower crops in roof garden 
         
          
        Cacti and succulents in  roof garden 
          
        Medicinal plants in roof garden 
        Method of cultivation in roof top 
           
          1.  Trough / Benches  
           
          In the open roof top, based on the bearing  load, cement benches of convenient length and depth can be constructed and the  soil mixture (2 parts of red soil + 1 part of sand + 1 part of compost) filled  up and utilized for growing the fruit or vegetable crops. Leave 1” space at the  rim, to facilitate irrigation. 
          
        2.  Trough (For newly build houses) 
           
          For efficient utilization of roof  spaces, an inward trough is formed in the unutilized spaces of roof top i.e., like sunkened trough. The length  and depth of trough may be designed as per the requirement. The available area  is properly coated with water-proofing materials to avoid the seepage of water  into the roof area. The inner side is designed with a gradual slope to  facilitate the drainage. The drainage hole is covered with wire mesh and gravel  for ensured drainage. Finally the entire area is laid with geo-textile material  and finally filled up with the soil mixture for raising fruits and vegetable.   
          
          
          
        Bearing  of Brinjal  
        3.  Pots / Containers :Pots  and Containers can be used for raising the fruits and vegetables. 
           
  Types  of containers 
        
          
            - Cement  pots 
 
            - Earthen  pots 
 
            - Plastic  barrels 
 
            - Wooden  barrels
 
            - Boxes 
 
            - Crates
 
            - Paws
 
            - Plastic  jars
 
            - Damaged  buckets
 
            - Tin  boxes
 
            - Drums  and different sizes
 
            - Plastic  covers
 
            - Cement  / Fertilizer bags
 
            - Damaged  sink / wash basin
 
            - Damaged  bowls / water tanks
 
            - Unused  water cans
 
           
         
          
        Seed  pan and seed boxes 
         
          Seed pans are shallow earthen pots  about 10cm high and 35cm in diameter with a drainage hole at the bottom. Seed  boxes are made of wood, porcelain and earthen pots of 40cm wide and 60cm long  and 10cm deep, with 6-8 properly spaced holes drilled in the bottom. Against  each holes a crock is placed with its concave side down. Some large pieces of  crock are put over it and also by the side of this crock, some coarse sand 2 or  3 handfull is sprinkled on the crock pieces forming a thin layer to prevent  fine soil from clogging the drainage hole. Over this, required soil mixture is  added and kept in open sunlight for raising the vegetables. 
          
        Earthen  pots 
         
          Earthen pots made of burnt porous clay  in various sizes to hold enough quantity of soil and roof space for cultivating  different kinds of plants. They have straight sides and are made wider at the  top than at the bottom to hold the greatest bulk of compost and also to  facilitate easy removal of soil, intact with roots (ball of earth) at the time  of planting or repotting. 
           
          In our country, pots of varying sizes viz., tube pots, ¼ size, ½ size, ¾ size  and ‘thali’ are used commonly. Tube pots are used to raise the rootstocks of  mango and sapota for grafting purposes. ¼ size pots are used for potting singly  very small seedlings during first transplanting and also for layering in plants  like West Indian Cherry and Guava. ½ size pots are extensively employed for  growing well rooted cuttings of several kinds of plants and small plants of all  kinds. ¾ size pots are preferred for growing Dahlia, Cannas, Palms, Shrubs,  Roses etc. In addition to the above, the earthen pots were filled with soil  mixture and used for raising vegetable crops. Apart from the above, the soil  mixture is filled in polythene covers and used for the cultivation of  vegetables like tomato, brinjal, chilli, turmeric, coriander, amaranthus etc., 
         
          
        Polythene  bags 
         
          Small polythene bags with punched holes  at the bottom for drainage and filled with a porous rooting medium are used for  propagation of cuttings like jasmine, duranta, crotons etc., in the mist  chamber. Some times, young seedlings which are raised in the nursery are  subsequently transplanted in these polythene bags are kept there till they  attain required growth for transplanting them to the main field (e.g., papaya,  curry leaf etc). 
        
        Plastic  pots:
          Plastic pots, round and square are  used to keep mostly indoor plants. They are reusable, light weight, non-porous  and they require only little storage space. 
          
        Fibre  pots: 
          These are available in small size  varying from 5-10 cm width and are either round or square in shape. They are  bio non-degradable and last longer periods with the soil and plants inside. 
          
        Paraffined  paper or Styrofoam cups 
           
        They look like ice-cream cups with  drainage holes. They serve satisfactory as temporary containers for growing and  transferring young plants on a large seed bed. They are light, cheap and  require little space. Recently, thermocole molded pots have been gaining  popularity as they are light weight and attractive. 
          
        Tools  
        
          
            - Hand       hoe
 
            - Spade       / showel
 
            - Rose       can
 
            - Hand       sprayer 
 
            - Gardening       hose with sprinkler 
 
            - Bamboo       stakes and jute strings
 
           
         
        Other  inputs   
        
          
            - Quality       seeds from reliable sources like Agricultural University       and Research Stations and National Seed Corporation. 
 
            - Good       soil free from stones, weeds and other undecomposable materials 
 
            - Well       decomposed organic manure (compost / FYM / leaf compost / digested coir       compost) 
 
            - River       bed sand 
 
            - Chemical  fertilizers
 
            - Insecticides 
 
            - Fungicide 
 
            - Organic       inputs (Neem oil, Neem seed kernel extract, Panchakavya) 
 
           
         
        How  to start  
        
          
            - Wash       the container thoroughly and make drainage holes at the bottom 
 
            - Mix       soil, compost and sand with the help of hand hoe and shovel.  
 
            - Fill       the containers loosely with a gentle tap. The soil should settle, bearing       one inch head space at the top for irrigation. 
 
            - a).       For the transplanted vegetables, where nursery has to be raised, shallow       pans and troughs can be filled with the fine mixture of soil, sand and       compost (1:1:1) and the seeds should be sown. The container should be       irrigated immediately after sowing. A layer of dry grass or straw is       spread on top of the soil till the seedlings emerge, and thereafter it is       removed. Most of the seedlings are ready for transplanting with one month       of sowing. Recently, protrays are employed for raising vegetable       seedlings. Protrays are the plug trays of 2-3’’ depth with a drainage       hole. Initially ¼ portion of plug are filled with compost and one seed is       sown in each plug and cover the remaining portion with compost or sand       mixed compost. The watering and other operations are similarly to the       above method.
              
b)The seeds of certain vegetable  crops which can be sown directly, should be sown in the selected pots/  polythene bags etc., The depth of the seed sowing should be about two and a  half times of the seed size. Most of the vegetables are raised by  sowing their seeds directly in containers. The seedlings of brinjal, chilli,  tomato, capsicum and onion are transplanted in containers / pots after 30-40  days of germination. Their seedlings can also be raised in earthen pot or pans.  A single healthy seedling may be transplanted in each container. Several  seedlings, each of onion and knolkhol, and can be transplanted in a container  of the same size. Two or three seeds are sown directly in such containers and  later thinned out retaining healthy seedlings. The number of plants per pot may  be varied with shape and size. 
             
           
         
        Crop  selection and raising  
        
          
            Sl.No.  | 
            Vegetables  | 
            Sowing    / planting  | 
            Days    to First harvest after sowing / planting  | 
           
          
            Method  | 
            Time  | 
           
          
            1.  | 
            Amaranthus   | 
            Sowing   | 
            February- March  
              July- August   | 
            25-30  | 
           
          
            2.  | 
            Beet root   | 
            Sowing   | 
            October – December  | 
            90-100  | 
           
          
            3.  | 
            Bittergourd   | 
            Sowing   | 
            February-March   | 
            55-60  | 
           
          
            4.  | 
            Brinjal   | 
            Transplanting   | 
            January - February 
              July – August   | 
            45-60  | 
           
          
            5.  | 
            Broad bean   | 
            Sowing   | 
            September – October   | 
            70-75  | 
           
          
            6.  | 
            Chilli  | 
            Transplanting   | 
            January - February 
              July – August  | 
            50-60  | 
           
          
            7.  | 
            Cluster bean   | 
            Sowing   | 
            July – August  | 
            30-35  | 
           
          
            8.  | 
            Cowpea   | 
            Sowing   | 
            January - February   | 
            60-65  | 
           
          
            9.  | 
            Cucumber   | 
            Sowing   | 
            February- March  | 
            45-50  | 
           
          
            10.  | 
            Methi/ Fenugreek   | 
            Sowing   | 
            September – December  | 
            45-50  | 
           
          
            11.  | 
            Mint   | 
            Transplanting   | 
            Match – July   | 
            45-50  | 
           
          
            12.  | 
            Okra / Bhendi   | 
            Sowing   | 
            June – July   | 
            30-35  | 
           
          
            13.  | 
            Onion   | 
            Transplanting   | 
            June-July 
              October - November  | 
            75-80  | 
           
          
            14.  | 
            Radish   | 
            Sowing   | 
            Round the year   | 
            25-30  | 
           
          
            15.  | 
            Spinach   | 
            Sowing   | 
            September – October   | 
            50-55  | 
           
          
            16.  | 
            Tomato   | 
            Transplanting   | 
            December - January 
              June – July    | 
            60-65  | 
           
          
            20.  | 
            Turnip   | 
            Sowing   | 
            September-October   | 
            40-45  | 
           
         
        Cropping pattern  
 
            Generally  almost all vegetable and spice crops are raised in three seasons Vaikaasi  pattam, Adi pattam and Thai pattam. For small scale purpose i.e., cultivation in home stead gardens,  we need not depend on any season; but raising of vegetables can be avoided  during summer seasons.    
        
          
            Plots  | 
            May-June    to 
                    September-October  | 
            September    – October to December-January  | 
            December-January    to May-June  | 
           
          
            Annual crops  | 
           
          
            (a) Bitter gourd  | 
            Lab lab  | 
            Snake gourd  | 
           
          
            (b) Brinjal and chilli  | 
            Amaranthus  | 
            Okra  | 
           
          
            (c) Ash gourd  | 
            Pumpkin  | 
            Amaranth  | 
           
          
            (d) Bushy / semi-trailing cowpea  | 
            Tomato  | 
            Cucumber   | 
           
          
            (e) Okra  | 
            Ash gourd  | 
            Chilli / brinjal  | 
           
          
            (f) Pumpkin  | 
            Okra  | 
            Onion  | 
           
          
            Perennial crops  | 
           
          
            (a) Vegetables  | 
            Drumstick, curly leaf, Chekurmanis, culinary banana,    Chekkurmanis, Agathi  | 
           
          
            (b) Fruits  | 
            Banana, acid lime, papaya, West Indian cherry, guava, rose    apple etc.  | 
           
          
            (c) Spices  | 
            Ginger, turmeric, mango ginger  | 
           
         
        Fruits  crops suited for roof garden 
        
          
            - Banana, Guava, Acid lime and Papaya
 
           
         
        Vegetable  crops suited for roof garden 
        
          
            - Transplanted vegetables: Tomato,  Brinjal, Chilli
 
            - Direct sown vegetables: Bhendi,  Amaranthus, Cucurbitaceous vegetables like – Bitter gourd, Snake gourd, Ridge  gourd and Bottle gourd, Radish and Beet root
 
           
         
        Spice  crops suited for roof garden 
        
          
            - Turmeric, Coriander and Fenugreek
 
           
         
        Medicinal  crops suited for roof garden: Agathi, Adathoda, Aloe vera,  Oomathai, Lemon grass, Oomavalli, Karisalanganni, Perandai,  Keelanelli, Thuthuvelai, Ponnanganni and Manathakali  
        Cultivation  of fruits 
        
          
            | S.No. | 
            Crop | 
            Varieties | 
            Plating    materials | 
            Spacing               (m) | 
            Yield               (Yield    varies with varieties and spacing adopted) | 
           
          
            | 1. | 
            Mango | 
            Neelum 
              Banganapalli 
              Mallika 
            Bangalora,    Alphonso, Rumani, | 
            Grafts | 
            5 m x 5m | 
            8 – 10 t/ha    upto 15 years 
  15 – 20 t/ha from 15 – 20 years | 
           
          
            | 2. | 
            Banana | 
            Robusta,  
              Dwarf    Cavendish, Grand Naine, Rasthali,  
            Poovan,    Nendran, Karpooravalli, | 
            Suckers | 
            2 m x 2 m | 
            Yield (t/ha/year) 
  Poovan:  40 – 50 
  Monthan :     30 – 40 
  Rasthali :     40 – 50 
  Robusta :     50 – 60 
  Dwarf Cavendish :  50 – 60 | 
           
          
            | 3. | 
            Guava | 
            Allahabad, Lucknow    46, 49, Arka Amulya, Arka Mridula, Banaras,    Baptla | 
            Layers | 
            5 m x 5m | 
            25 t/ha | 
           
          
            | 4. | 
            Sapota | 
            Oval,  
              Cricket    Ball,  
              Kirtibarti,  
              Guthi,  
              CO    1,  
              CO    2,  
              CO.3,  
              PKM    1,  
              PKM    2,  
              PKM    3,  
            PKM-4,              PKM (sa)-5 and Kalipatti | 
            Grafts | 
            8 x 4 m | 
            20 - 25    t/ha/year  | 
           
          
            | 5. | 
            Papaya | 
            CO 1,  
              CO 2,  
              CO 3,  
              CO 4,  
              CO 5,  
              CO 6,  
              CO 7,  
              Coorg Honey    dew and  
            Surya | 
            Seeds | 
            1.8 m x 1.8 m | 
            CO 2     :  600 kg/ha 
  CO 5  :  800 Kg/ha | 
           
          
            6.  | 
            Acid lime  | 
            Local    varieties, PKM1   | 
            Budded plants  | 
            4 m x 4 m  | 
            25    t/ha/year  | 
           
         
        Cultivation  of vegetables 
        
          
             
            S.No.  | 
            Crop  | 
            Varieties  | 
            Plating    materials  | 
            Spacing 
                    (m)  | 
            Yield 
                    (Yield    varies with varieties and spacing adopted)  | 
           
          
            1.  | 
            Tomato  | 
            PKM 1,  
            CO 3    (Marutham) and Paiyur 1  | 
            Seed  | 
            PKM 1,    Paiyur 1  :   
              60 x 45 cm 
              CO    3  :  45 x 30 cm  | 
            PKM    1       : 30-35 t/ha 
              CO 3         : 40    t/ha 
              Paiyur       : 30 t/ha  | 
           
          
            2.  | 
            Brinjal  | 
            Co 1,  
              Co 2,  
              MDU 1,  
              PKM 1,  
              PLR 1,  
              KKM 1,  
              PPI 1,  
            Annamalai    and COBH 1 (Hybrid)  | 
            Seed  | 
            60 x 60 cm,  
              For hybrids    75 x 60 (or) 75 x 75 cm  | 
            Varieties :    25 to 30 t/ha 
              Hybrids   : 45-50 t/ha  | 
           
          
            3.  | 
            Chillies  | 
            K 1,  
              K 2,  
              CO 1,  
              CO 2,  
              CO 3,  
              CO 4    (Vegetable type),  
              PKM 1,  
              KKM 1,  
              KKM (ch) 1,  
            PLR 1  | 
            Seed  | 
            45 cm x 30    cm  | 
            2 - 3 t/ha    of dry pods  
              10 - 15    t/ha of green chilli  | 
           
          
            4.  | 
            Snake gourd  | 
            CO 1,  
              CO 2,  
              PKM 1,  
              MDU 1 and  
            PLR (SG) 1  | 
            Seed  | 
            2.5 m x 2 m  | 
            18 t/ha  | 
           
          
            5.  | 
            Ribbed    gourd  | 
            CO 1,  
              CO 2,  
              PKM 1,  
            Arka Sumeet    and Arka Sujath  | 
            Seed  | 
            2.5 m x 2 m  | 
            14 – 15    t/ha  | 
           
          
            6.  | 
            Bitter    gourd  | 
            CO 1,  
              MDU 1,  
              COBgoH 1    (Hybrid), Arka Harit,  
              Priya and  
            Preethi  | 
            Seed  | 
            2 m x 1.5 m  | 
            Varieties:    14 t/ha 
              Hybrids : 40 t/ha               | 
           
          
            7.  | 
            Cluster    beans  | 
            Pusa    Mausami, Pusa Naubahar, Goma Manjari and Pusa Sadabahar  | 
            Seed  | 
            45 cm x 15    cm  | 
            5 – 7 t    pods/ha  | 
           
          
            8.  | 
            Vegetable    Cow Pea  | 
            CO 2,  
              VBN 2,  
            Pusa Komal    and Arka Garima  | 
            Seed  | 
            45 cm x 15    cm  | 
            5000 kg/ha  | 
           
          
            9.  | 
            Annual    Moringa  | 
            PKM 1, PKM    2 and KKM 1  | 
            Seed  | 
            2.5 m x 2.5    m  | 
            50 - 55    tonnes of pods/ha  
              (220    pods/tree/year)  | 
           
          
            10.  | 
            Radish   | 
            CO 1,  
              Pusa    Rashmi,  
              Pusa    Chetki,  
            Pusa Desi,    Japanese White and Arka Nishant  | 
            Seed  | 
            15 cm x 10    cm  | 
            20 – 30    t/ha  | 
           
          
            11.  | 
            Small Onion/ Aggregatum  | 
            CO 1,  
              CO 2,  
              CO 3,  
              CO 4,  
              MDU 1 and 
            Co (On) 5    (free flowering and seed setting type)  | 
            Seed / Bulb  | 
            15 cm x 10    cm  | 
            12 – 16    t/ha  
              For Co (On)    5 onion, 18 t/ha in 90 days  | 
           
          
            12.  | 
            Amaranthus   | 
            CO 1    (Mulaikeerai and Thandukeerai) 
              CO 2 (Mulaikeerai and Thandukeerai) 
              CO 3 (Clipping) 
              CO 4 (Grain) 
            CO 5 (Mulaikeerai and Thandukeerai)  | 
            Seed  | 
            15 cm x 10    cm  | 
            Leafy    types 
              25 days after sowing for Mulaikeerai (10 t/ha) 
              40 days after sowing for Thandukeerai (16 t/ha) 
              Clipping    types 
              10 clippings at weekly intervals  
              (30 t/ha)  | 
           
          
            13.  | 
            Curry leaf   | 
            Sen    Kaampa, Dharwad-1 and Dharwad-2   | 
            Seeds /    Suckers  | 
            1.5 m x 1.5    m  | 
            250-400 kg    of leaves/ha  | 
           
         
        Cultivation  of Spices 
        
          
            S.No.  | 
            Crop  | 
            Varieties  | 
            Plating    materials  | 
            Spacing 
                    (m)  | 
            Yield 
                    (Yield    varies with varieties and spacing adopted)  | 
           
          
            1.  | 
            Turmeric   | 
            CO 1,  
              BSR 1,  
              BSR 2,  
              Local cultivar: Salem and Erode  | 
            Rhizome  | 
            45 cm x 15    cm  | 
            Fresh    rhizomes  :  25-30 t/ha  | 
           
          
            2.  | 
            Coriander  | 
            CO 1, CO 2, CO 3 and CO (CR) 4  | 
            Seeds  | 
            15 cm x 10    cm  | 
            Leaf    yield  :  6-7 t/ha  | 
           
          
            3.  | 
            Fenugreek  | 
            CO 1, Pusa early bunching and CO 2  | 
            Seeds  | 
            15 cm x 10    cm  | 
            Yield of    green : 4000 - 5000 kg/ha  | 
           
         
        Cultural  practices 
           
          Watering 
           
   Plants  in pots and containers need a lot of care and attention. It is essential to  water the plants judiciously depending upon the season, kind of crop, size of  the plant and size of the container. Plants need extra water during summer  season and hence the plants should preferably be irrigated twice a day. Too  much watering will also lead to problems; hence we should strike a intelligent  balance. The thumb rule for irrigation is that the top soil should be scratch  about one inch and seen, if the lower soil is damp, there is no need of  immediate irrigation. Due to evaporation, the top soil generally dries even  though the soil may have enough moisture to sustain the plant. In general,  watering can be done as and when required. 
    
   Staking 
    
   Depending  on the growth stage of plants, they need staking (i.e) support. Plants like lab  lab, ribbed gourd, bottle gourd and snake gourd needs staking or it has to be  trained in pandal system for proper support. In addition to the above, plants  like tomato, brinjal and chilli also need staking on 60th day of  planting.  
          
        Fertilizer  application  
           
          For maximum growth and yield of crops  can be achieved not only through organic manures and can be improved better by  the application of inorganic fertilizers. Top dressing with nitrogenous  fertilizers improves plant growth and yield of vegetables. This can be done by  applying urea or DAP or ammonium sulphate in small quantities. In general, 5-10  g of urea may be applied in moist soil once in a week or 10 days starting from  3 weeks after sowing or 2 weeks after transplanting. In general, 5 to 10  grammes of complex fertilizers (17:17:17 / 20:20:20) containing NPK mixture is  applied in three stages as follows: 
        
          
            - 30       days after planting (i.e) on set       of vegetative phase = 5 to 10 grammes/plant
 
            - 60       days after planting (i.e) on set       of flowering phase = 15 to 20 grammes/plant
 
            - 90       days after planting (i.e) on set       of fruiting phase = 15 to 20 grammes/plant
 
           
         
        In  addition to the above, vermicompost 100 grammes/plant should be applied at  monthly intervals. Care must me taken that vermicompost should not mix with any  inorganic fertilizers. Hence the application of vermicompost and inorganic  fertilizers should not be practiced simultaneously. Heavy doses of fertilizer  are very harmful. Immediately after fertilizer application, the plant should be  watered.  
           
            Weed  Control : Hand hoeing and weeding helps in aeration in  the root zone and help the plant grow healthy. Weeds should be removed gently  in leafy vegetable crops like amaranthus, fenugreek, spinach, coriander etc.  
             
  Pest and disease management  
        
          - Pick and destroy the larvae found on  fruits and vegetables and then spray Neem oil @ 4 ml/liter of water + sticking  agent 2 ml/liter of water or kadi soap or 
 
          - Neem Seed Kernel Extract @ 3 % +  sticking agent 2 ml/liter of water or kadi soap
 
          - Avoid spraying of toxic chemicals.
 
         
        Based on the growth  pattern and climatic factors vegetables are attacked by various pests and  diseases. Aphids and jassids are small sucking insects, injuring the plants  especially in early stages of their growth. Spraying of Dimethoate @ 2ml / liter  of water + Neem oil @ 4 ml/liter of water + sticking agent 2 ml/liter  of water or kadi soap  controls these insects. Fruit fly and fruit borer are serious pests of some  vegetable crops.  They damage young  fruits and make them unfit for consumption.  
           
        The affected fruits should be  plucked and destroyed. The plants should be sprayed once or twice with insecticides.  After spraying, fruits should not be harvested for 7-10 days for consumption.  Fungal diseases (damping off and wilt) and viral disease affect the plants  particularly during the rainy season. Fungal diseases can be controlled by  drenching the soil with ‘Captaf’ solution @ 2g / lit of water. Virus affected  plants should be removed and destroyed.  
        Harvesting 
           
  Vegetables  harvested at the peak of maturity and used promptly, are always superior in  nutritional content, freshness, flavour and appearance. Leafy vegetables should  be picked up frequently when tender. Root vegetables should be pulled out while  tender otherwise they become pithy. Tomato is picked at ripe stage, brinjal and  okra are picked after they attains full size but still tender.  
   
   Rare  vegetables like leek, fennel, and soya are not available in market always. Thus  these can be advantageously raised in containers. Curry leaf, Checkurmanis and  gooseberry can also be grown in medium to big sized containers in a roof  garden.  
   
  Post  harvest operations 
        Digging  of soil: As soon as the season is over i.e., after the final harvesting of vegetables, remove the plant  from the pot / polythene cover and dump the soil in open place and break the  clods.  
        Application  of organic manures: After 15 days, add organic manures and mix the soil  thoroughly and refill the pots or polythene covers. 
        Choose  alternate crops: In order to maintain proper recycling of nutrients,  crop rotation can be adopted. Hence choose alternate crops for the next season.     
        Ornamental plants  suited for roof garden   
        Ornamental  trees   
           
        Bauhinia purpurea, Plumeria alba and Callistemon  lanceolatus 
          
        Shrubs  
        Acalypha hispida,  Allamanda grandiflora, Barleria cristata, Bauhinia tomentosa, Clerodendron  inerme, Dombeya spectabilis, Duranta plumieri, Hamelia patens, Hibiscus  rosasinensis, Mussaenda erthyrophylla, Nerium oleander, Poinsettia pulcherrima,  Tecoma stans, Thevetia nereifolia, Codioeum sp, Eranthemium elegans and Pisonia alba 
                    
          
          
          
          
        Climbers: Allamanda  cathartica, Asparagus densiflorus, Bougainvillea sp, Clitorea ternatea, Ipomoea  palmate, Quisqualis indica 
          
        Flowers: Impatiens balsamina, Celosia sp, Chrysanthemum sp, Cosmos bipinnatus, Gomphrena  globosa, Tagetus erecta, Petunia hybrida, Portulaca grandiflora, Salvia  splendens, Solidago Canadensis, Vinca rosea and Zinnia  elegans  
        
                      
             
         
        Lawn grass 
        
          
            -   Grassy area
 
            -  Charming effect
 
            -  Breaks the monotony and brings the integrity  of garden components
 
            -  Cushiony layer for players who are engaged in  sport activities  
 
            -  Checks the pollution
 
            -  Increase the monetary value of land 
 
           
         
        Types of lawn grasses 
        
          
            S. No.   | 
            Botanical name   | 
            Common name   | 
            Texture   | 
            Situation   | 
           
          
            1.  | 
            Cynodon dactylon   | 
            Hariyali (or) Arugu (or)    Doob grass  | 
            Medium  | 
            Suitable for open sunny location;    drought tolerant   | 
           
          
            2.  | 
            Stenotaphrum secundatum   | 
            St.      Augustine    grass  | 
            Coarse  | 
            Suitable for shady situation with    frequent irrigations  | 
           
          
            3.  | 
            Zoysia japonica   | 
            Japan grass  | 
            Coarse  | 
            Can grow well in poor sandy soil and    suited for open sunny situation  | 
           
          
            4.  | 
            Paspalum vaginatum   | 
            Paspalum    grass /  
              Sea    Shore Paspalum   | 
            Medium  | 
            Suitable for open sunny situation,    highly drought tolerant  | 
           
         
        Selection of site  
        
          
            - Open  sunny places and preferably with little quantity of shade.
 
            -  Site should have ample quantity of water for  irrigation.
 
            -  Free from hazards like grazing and use of  pathways
 
            -  Site should not be under the tree canopy as  the litter affects the quality of turf grass 
 
            -  Poorly drained soils should be avoided.
 
            -  Soil and water should be medium to good  quality.
 
           
         
        Primary operations 
        Site clearing 
            (Uprooting  of tree roots, stumps and concretes) 
          
          Back filling with soil mix 
        (Red  soil: Sand: Compost – 2:1:1 ratio) 
          
        Laying of irrigation lines – main and  laterals 
          
          Soil compaction 
Final leveling with gentle slope for  drainage 
        (Red  soil: Sand: Compost – 2:1:1 ratio) 
           
          Methods of lawn making   
        
          
            - Seeding 
 
            - Dibbling / Sprigging 
 
            - Sodding / Turfing
 
           
         
        Seeding 
        
          
            - 30 – 32 kg  of seed is required for planting one hectare area (10,000 ha)
 
            -  Seeds normally take 25 – 30 days for  germination
 
            -  Seeds are mixed with double the quantity of  fine textured soil preferably of sand and sown uniformly on a windless day 
 
           
         
          
        Care 
        
          
            -  Till establishment, flood watering and hose  watering is avoided 
 
            -  Mowing should be done after 50 – 60 days of  sowing 
 
           
         
        Disadvantages 
        
          
            -  Poor establishment when compared to other methods. 
 
            -  The availability of good quality seeds.
 
           
         
        Sod / Turfing 
           
            Selecting turf pieces 
        
          
            -  Should be free from sod worms
 
            -  Free from nutritional deficiency
 
            -  Free from weed population
 
            -  Sod should be properly cut without any  deformations
 
            -  Height of the grass should be optimum 
 
            -  Free from other pest and diseases
 
           
         
        Precautions 
        
          
            -  Mowing should be done 20 – 25 days after planting or  depending upon the complete establishment.
 
            -  The uneven surfaces and gaps can be fitted  with turf plugs  with sand.
 
            -  Turfing should not be practiced in winter  seasons as it exhibits yellowing due to low temperature and low light  intensity.
 
           
          
            
              Advantages  | 
                 | 
             
            
              
                - Quick and instant establishment
 
                | 
                 | 
             
            
               | 
                 | 
             
            
              
                - Best suited for exhibitions, sports grounds
 
                | 
                 | 
             
            
              Disadvantages   | 
             
            
               | 
             
            
              
                - Poor establishment during winter season
 
                | 
             
                     
         
        Dibbling / Sprigging 
           
        
          
            - Turf  grass are separated along with their root portion   is dibbled at 10 – 15 cm distances 
 
            -  Sprouting at 25 – 30 days 
 
            -  Complete coverage may take around 3 – 4 months      after planting
 
           
         
        Precautions 
        
          
            -  Mowing should be done 30 – 35 days planting.
 
            -  Mowing should be done at one-third level  without affecting  the foliage growth.
 
            -  Traffic movement should be avoided till the  establishment.
 
            -  Light  irrigation followed by rolling improves the turf appearance. 
 
           
         
        Advantages: Cheapest method 
        Disadvantages 
         
        
          
            -  Slow establishment 
 
            -  Cost of planting is higher, when compared to    other method of establishment.
 
           
         
        Quarterly fertilizer input ratio for  turf grass 
        
          
            Situation   | 
            Urea   | 
            Superphosphate   | 
            Murite of potash   | 
           
          
            (g/m2)    | 
           
          
            Low    Maintenance 
                    (Residential    turfs)   | 
            100   | 
            75   | 
            75   | 
           
          
            High    Maintenance 
              (e.g.    Turf in public gardens)  | 
            200  | 
            100  | 
            150  | 
           
          
            Intensive    Maintenance 
              (e.g.    Sports fields)  | 
            300  | 
            150  | 
            150  | 
           
         
          
        
          - 
            
Applied in  two split doses (at 6 months intervals i.e.,  onset of summer and onset of winter season)  
           
          - 
            
Irrigate the  lawn after fertilizer applicati 
           
         
        Maintenance of lawn grass  
                 
                a)Mowing 
        
        b)Weed management  
        
          
            - Controlled  by spot application / drenching with Glyphosate @ 5 ml/litre of water +  Ammonium sulphate @ 10 g/litre of water
 
           
         
        c)Nutrient management  
        
          
            - Fertilizers  are applied in split doses @ 40 days interval
 
            -  Irrigation is given immediately after  fertilizer application
 
           
         
        d).Pest and disease management  
        
          
            - Spray  Dimethoate/Acephate @ 2 ml/liter  +  Dithane M-45 @ 2 g/liter
 
            - 
              
 Sprayed on rainless day 
             
           
         
        Do’s  and Don’ts 
             
            Do’s  
        
          
            - Place       the pots in available space, accordingly to sunshine requirement. 
 
            - Always       check the drainage in the pots.
 
            - Leave       1” space in the pot at the rim, to facilitate irrigation.
 
            - Always       sow the nursery in separate pots or protrays.
 
            - Use       deep pots for plants with deeper roots (perennials) and shallow for       shallow rooted plants (annuals).
 
            - Keep large       and heavy pots in strong part of the building.
 
            - Irrigate       as and when required, after checking the moisture regime of the pot.
 
            - Always       keep the pots and plants weed free, disease and pest free.
 
            - Place       pots away from each other to facilitate air circulation. 
 
            -  Avoid spraying of toxic chemicals.
 
           
         
        Don’ts  
        
          
            - Don’t       overwater the pots.
 
            - Don’t       let the drainage hole clog or don’t block the drainage hole.
 
            - Don’t       place too many pots together.
 
            - Don’t       place heavy pots in apartments if the building is not constructed to bear       the weight since damp soil is much heavier than dry soil. 
 
            - Don       not grow perennial plants (fruit crops like mango, sapota and guava) at       roof top, since the heavy feeder roots may penetrate / damage the roof       top.
 
           
         
        Other  considerations 
        
          
            - In the       safer point of view, the roof top has to be painted with anti damp or damp       proof paint to avoid seeping of water to roof of the house and staining       the floor and roof.  
 
            - The       garden work can be shared by all the members of the family. The strenuous       work like lifting the pots, pot filling and weeding can be assigned to the       youngsters, harvesting can be done by old people and children of the       family.  Women can participate in       weeding and irrigation. 
 
            - It is       good idea to replenish the media with FYM periodically, say after every       season or harvest so that the nutrient status of the soil is maintained.       After one year or 3 seasons the media has to be changed using fresh soil       and sand.
 
            - Large       concrete pots of 2 ½ -3’ or waste / damaged plastic drums can be used to       grow papaya and banana.
 
            - When       the inmates are out of station for 7-10 days the most important       consideration is irrigation for which the following can be done. 
 
           
          
            
              - The  drainage plates can be filled with water to maintain the moisture level.
 
              - Some  mulch can be used on top of the pot soil, like a plastic sheet or straw / moss  mulch.
 
              - For  greens, since frequent watering is important, several layers of newspaper can  be tied to the body of the pot and the newspapers should be completely drenched  with water.
 
             
           
          
            - To       raise seedling like tomato or brinjal, “Protrays” which are trays with       shallow depth (2-2.5”) should be used. The seed can be sown in small       quantity also without wastage. 
 
           
         
        A pot of 1m depth and  convenient length width may be used for composting plant residue / kitchen  waste. Vegetable wastes like leaf waste, onion peels, waste vegetables, pulp  wastes, tea wastes, chopped pieces of cauliflower / cabbage can be effectively  decomposed in the pits / plastic barrels. The vegetable wastes are dumped and a  layer of soil (1’’ thickness) may be added at the top for efficient and quick  decomposition. The rate of decomposition can be enhanced by sprinkling water  daily.  
           
          The kitchen waste can be dumped daily or as per the availability. Few  earthworms may also be added for faster decompostion. The compost is ready for  use within two and half months to three months. The well composed material will  be dark brown in colour. The partially decomposed / undecomposed materials and  earthworms were again dumped back along with the earthworms. Avoid non vegetarian  items as it may create a fowl smell. The best location for compost preparation  is shady to semi-shady locations. 
           
            Physical  and psychic utility  
             
  Owing  to the seat bound office jobs, there is hardly and physical activity in our  lives. This lack of exercise has lead to a number of health hazards. Roof  garden system of vegetable cultivation provides an alternative to people living  in all kinds of dwellings – individual houses, flats, or apartments. A family  can tend the garden as a team. This can be a healthy family time to interact  and talk, while doing a useful activity from the point of health and economy.  This physical exercise helps us to forget the tensions of office and our minds  can freshen up.  
   
  With  the passage of time, the traditional joint family system is breaking up in India  and most of the families are fragmenting into nuclear families on account of  struggle for money and job strains. In families where grand parents are a part,  the older generation feels left out. With a roof garden at home, even the old  people can participate and feel one of the group and work rather than feeling  left out. Thus having a garden is not only a physical or monitory need but a  psychological too.  
     
        Source 
           
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